A Comprehensive 36-Hour Guide to Zurich
Zurich is frequently reduced to simplistic labels such as traditional, bourgeois, or unimaginative, primarily because of its status as a banking metropolis that boasts one of the highest living standards worldwide. However, Switzerland's biggest city is far from being mundane. Birthplace of the influential art movement, Dadaism, and an erstwhile abode of renowned writer James Joyce, Zurich has a rich avant-garde legacy. The city was also a pivotal place in the life of the celebrated architect Le Corbusier, for it was here he designed his last structure before he passed away.
The city's innovative spirit continues to blossom today. The thriving culinary world of Zurich blends gourmet dining experiences with a rock'n roll spirit. The vibrant nightlife offers a range from sophisticated cocktail lounges to late-night electro clubs operating until the wee hours. The fusion of the past and the present is engrained into the city's sprawling retail scene, from countless markets and high-end stores on Bahnhofstrasse, to budding fashion designers and antique sellers in the gradually evolving industrial districts. Given the city's dynamic ambiance, perhaps the most suitable descriptor for Zurich is a word starting with 'B' – buzzing.
1. Come to Dada, 4 p.m.
A revolt against more or less everything — reason, order, convention, language, good taste — the absurdist global movement known as Dada began 100 years ago in Zurich, the mischievous bastard child of Hugo Ball, Tristan Tzara, Jean Arp and their subversive coterie of intellectuals and artists. To celebrate the centennial, Kunsthaus Zurich, the city’s excellent modern art museum, is hosting multiple exhibitions and special events. “Dadaglobe Reconstructed” (through May 1) assembles drawings, photomontages, collages, poems and stories from artists all over Europe, including Max Ernst and André Breton, and “Francis Picabia: A Retrospective” ( June 3 to Sept. 25) showcases the abstract and sometimes darkly humorous works of the French painter and writer. The permanent rooms devoted to the Swiss sculptor Alberto Giacometti, who also gets a retrospective this year, are a must. Admission 25 francs ($25).
2. A Glimpse into Dada's Origins, 6:30 p.m.
Nonconforming artistic expressions, aptly referred to by Tristan Tzara as instances of "deliberately chosen foolishness", were a defining trait of the events, readings, and other unpredictable happenings at Cabaret Voltaire. This is the birthplace of Dada, an influential art movement that took flight in 1916. Marking a century since its inception, the cafe has planned an array of 165 exciting Dada-themed programs and showcases throughout the year. The large, raw-bricked main hall provides an intriguing setting to enjoy a latte macchiato (priced at 6.50 francs) amidst non-conformists and artistic souls. Their bookstore offers enriching resources like the "Dada Handbook" (worth 25 francs) and even stirs your artistic senses with its house absinthe (priced at 65 francs), a tool to journey into the world of Dada art yourself.
3. Dinner and a Symphony , 8 p.m.
Experience the revolutionary culinary scene at Maison Manesse, a quaint, minimalist, and welcoming venue where tasting experiences are inspired by songs from Joy Division (for the meat-lovers) and Brigitte Bardot (for the veggie enthusiasts). The cuisine of Fabian Spiquel may present for meat aficionados a medley of tenderly-cut duck adorned with hints of savory squid ink and the sweet note of camu camu berry, a high antioxidant-bearing vegetation found in the Amazon, delectably juicy veal complemented with a rich parsnip purée, and the crisply fried charm of brussels sprouts with a hint of smoky flavor. Perhaps you'll be treated to a unique fusion of farm and forest embodied in a smooth egg foam topped with shaved truffles elegantly nested in a curved Savoy cabbage leaf. This culinary symphony comes with a price - set menus vary from 130 to 150 francs. Make a reservation in advance.
4. Evening Arts and Entertainment, 11 p.m.
At the end of an enriched day in Zurich, reside in the soothing ambiance of Xenix-Bar. The minimalist white interior, reminiscent of a cozy cabin, confronts the vivacious scene of Helvetiaplatz — an extensive square known for hosting flea markets every Saturday morning. Xenix-Bar shares its location with Kino Xenix, a cinema revered for showcasing a variety of immersive films that include indie creations from around the globe, long-lost classics, nostalgic favourites, and intriguing documentaries. Patrons, sporting fair-trade attire, retro eyewear, and classic jackets, delight in savouring local Paul lager (4.50 francs) and Swiss Pinot Noir (6.50 francs), often before, during and after the film screenings. The establishment truly resonates with the varied age groups it accommodates.
5. A Blend of Elegance and History, 11 a.m.
Make the most of your Saturday by delving into the art of shopping. For those seeking to furnish their abode or office with a hint of the Depression-era charm, your destination should be Walter. Nestled amidst the vibrant energy of Geroldstrasse, which is renowned for its art galleries, avant-garde photo studios, and popular nightclubs, Walter is a treasure trove of vintage goods. Imagine furnishing your space with unique additions such as Hermès typewriters, antique Tolix lockers, or even time-honored metal file cabinets and desks.
Moving further down Geroldstrasse, Bogen 33 is your spot for seating options. This underground haven offers a range of iconic pieces from renowned mid-century European design maestros such as Arne Jacobsen, Mies van der Rohe, and Eero Saarinen. Each piece reflects the history and charm of past eras, making them a perfect addition to your decor. Its eclectic collection also includes other retro-style furnishings that promise to bring a time-warp aesthetic to your space.
6. Exploring Culinary Delights, 1 p.m.
Experience the bountiful gastronomic offerings of Switzerland in the heart of Zurich at Markthalle, a gastronomic paradise nestled inside the historic stone arches of a repurposed railway overpass known as the Viadukt. The gastronomy scene here is a symphony of global and local delights. From a sushi counter to a cheese shop, a chocolate expert to a wine specialist, this bustling indoor market caters to every craving. Alternatively, the vibrant, loft-style Restaurant Markthalle offers a sit-down meal option. Created with Swiss craftsmanship, its evolving menu is tailored to the tastes of the modern gourmet. A unique fusion of innovation and traditional Swiss fare, the menu might feature homemade sausage served with tangy barbecue sauce (19 francs), sumptuously slow-cooked duck in its own fat (33 francs), or a delectable pork steak lightly charred and served with an aromatic truffle butter (24 francs).
7. The Path Troop, 3 p.m.
Feeling gastronomically inspired? Kitchener Plus, a trendy boutique under the railway trail, dedicates itself primarily to the area of gourmet delights. This innovative store offers a carefully selected inventory that supports your culinary journey from garden to table - from providing seeds for homegrown vegetable cultivation, to Falcon enamel mugs perfect for serving your morning coffee, to specialized oyster shucking tools from Malle W. Trousseau. For clean-up, they offer Triumph & Disaster liquid soap and for drying up, there are high-quality tea towels by Hay of Copenhagen. Not too far from here, lies Westflügel, a quaint bookstore-cum-gallery that carries an impressive range of artistic books and regularly presents engaging photo exhibitions. Westflügel is renowned for it's creative workshops, featuring renowned artists and photographers.
8. Beholding the Beauty of Switzerland, 5 P.M.
Embark on an enchanting late-afternoon journey across the serene Lake Zurich with the renowned boat service provided by ZSG. Leaving from Bürkliplatz, they have a variety of ferry routes and sightseeing trips to choose from, keeping you notified about the day's schedules via on-site video monitors adjacent to their automated ticket machines. One popular pick among visitors is the concise 90-minute circuit, plunging towards the idyllic suburbs in the south. You will witness Zurich’s architectural marvels such as its domes, spires and Beaux-Arts structures gradually being replaced by picturesque, hilly landscapes adorned with evergreen conifer forests and charming hamlets boasting age-old half-timbered houses. However, the magnificent, snow-capped Alps in the backdrop are what truly steal the show. For this captivating experience, adult tickets are priced at 8.60 francs.
9. Evening Pleasure at Josef's, 9 p.m.
Spotlight on Brigitte Bardot once more? Absolutely, spotlighted this time through her image, adding some allure to the extensive wine list on offer at Josef. This is a freshly inaugurated, glamour-infused venue replete with a rock 'n' roll ambiance. Iconic portraits of renowned personalities such as Yves Saint Laurent, Nick Cave, and Robert De Niro adorn the energetic, shimmer candles lit room while a cascade of creatively designed small dishes emerge from the kitchen. One can indulge in the smoky slices of rosy veal that is complemented beautifully by the toasty taste of hazelnuts and the uniquely pleasant pureed manioc. Craving for some Italian-Mediterranean fusion? How about goat cheese swaddled in fine slices of zucchini embellished with chopped sun-dried tomatoes and olives? Save some room for desserts, especially the chocolate mousse luxuriating in a caramel-quinoa sauce enhanced with nuanced flavours from the East; jasmine tea ice cream and mint. The menus are reasonably priced between 38 and 75 francs per person. Don't forget to reserve your table in advance.
10. Spirits in the Night, 11:30 p.m.
You can travel the world on an ocean of booze thanks to the international ingredients at Hotel Rivington & Sons, a 1920s-style cocktail bar on the ground floor of the Prime Tower skyscraper. Amid Art Deco mirrors and panels, bartenders in bow ties will send you off to Mexico with a Tres Amigos (tequila, mezcal, agave syrup, China-China, bitters; 20 francs), to the Far East with a Cough Syrup (Japanese whiskey, sage, lavender syrup; 18 francs) and then to your grave with a Death Cube (rye, bourbon, Cognac, falernum, China-China, bitters; 20 francs). Yet, if the allure of the bustling city lights outside your glass atrium becomes too hard to ignore, there's always your next adventure waiting just a click away. Explore the elegant hospitality of the Swiss cities on https://www.top-hotels-switzerland.com/en/geneva-hotels-30643/. From luxury accommodations to quaint boutique hideaways, there's an option for every discerning traveler. Ascend to heaven in the elevator, which will deposit you at Clouds. Lined by glass, the sultry lounge serves up smashing views and myriad gins. Send yourself a Postcard From Zurich (gin, vermouth, bitters; 23 francs), then send yourself to bed.
11. Brunch in The Nude, 11 a.m.
Getting purified comes with an experience worth going through. You just require 29 francs. These francs give you access to the enchanting Seebad Enge; a floating resort by the lake with amazing saunas that instantly melt away your muscle discomforts and facilitate the release of accumulated toxins from your body. The view from this spot is enough to take your breath away. Bare skin against the soothing pine boards is a normal occurrence, albeit not a rule. From where you lay, you can feast your eyes on the serene lake and the picturesque snow-capped mountains in the distance, thanks to the conveniently placed glass panels. Following your sauna session, you can freshen up with an invigorating cold shower or lake dive, and then unwind in the scenic relaxation room, outdoor bar, or cozy indoor café. Sip on a refreshing fruit juice or aromatic jasmine tea (each 4 francs) for added detoxification. And if you enjoy life's little indulgences, opt for the prosecco (14.50 francs) and begin the retox process in style.
Accommodation Options
Residing in Zurich's historical district is the recently inaugurated Marktgasse Hotel (Marktgasse 17). Boasting of 39 tastefully minimalist rooms marked by airy space, pristine fabrics, and light-colored wood. The property also includes a high-ceilinged lively café, a chic bar-restaurant featuring dark, handsome interiors, an eclectic library, and a traditional hammam. Prices start from 274 francs.
A stone's throw away from the vibrant nightlife of Langstrasse, you'll find the coolly unconventional Pension Für Dich (Stauffacherstrasse 141). More than just a dwelling, it is a thriving café and a concert venue with an 18-chamber pension attached. The rooms feature hardwood parquet flooring, flamboyantly designed wallpapers, and retro-chic furniture. Rates begin from a reasonable 125 francs.